Romance in Western Pomerania

Where painters simply have to paint

Author: Anna Monterroso Carneiro
Published: October 13, 2025

Immortalized by Caspar David Friedrich in numerous variations. Their charm remains unbroken to this day., © TMV/Friedrich

Soft pink, fiery orange, dark gray - the sunsets in Western Pomerania are magical. And on the coast, reed grass and gently gliding sailing boats create a particularly atmospheric setting.

 

 

When the sun goes down on the coast of Western Pomerania, it's easy to escape the speeding reality, take a deep breath and enjoy. Incidentally, this is not just a longing of the 21st century. It was already driving artists 200 years ago. They were looking for a way away from dreary theory, wanted to get back to nature, to themselves, to genuine humanity.

Whoever travels through the landscapes of Western Pomerania today, for example on the „Route of North German Romanticism“, it seems almost inevitable that this backdrop produced two of the greatest representatives of early Romanticism – and with Romanticism a whole new art form.

„Caspar David Friedrich and Philipp Otto Runge were two young men from Swedish Pomerania who revolutionized art,

says Dr Birte Frenssen, art historian and curator at the Pomeranian State Museum in Greifswald. And although the two painters had similar backgrounds, namely coming from families of craftsmen, studied at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen and each lived in Dresden for some time, and although they are both considered founders of Romanticism, they each found their own unique path.

Dr. Birte Frenssen is an art historian and curator at the Pomeranian State Museum in Greifswald., © TMV/Tiemann

Images of nature full of symbolism

The Romantic artist Caspar David Friedrich in Western Pomerania

Frenssen is probably the most knowledgeable person you can meet in Western Pomerania on the subject of Romanticism and Caspar David Friedrich. The Pomeranian State Museum is located on the grounds of a former Franciscan monastery. The painting gallery with many works by Friedrich is one of the museum's highlights. A new Romanticism gallery is currently being planned.

„What exactly is Romanticism, Dr. Frenssen?“

„Many people consider the sunset to be romantic. That used to be the case, and it is today. But for the Romantics, the artists of the Romantic period, the sunset had a meaning that went beyond the natural event. For them, human life was reflected in the times of day. ‚In the morning think‘ of your destiny, in the evening think‘ of your death‘ – that expresses the romantic understanding very well“. According to Frenssen, Romanticism is actually an art movement that is easy to understand. There is no abstraction whatsoever. If you look at a picture, you can experience exactly that outside in nature for yourself. Caspar David Friedrich invented expansive nature paintings in which he depicted the future and the mystery of the grave in a way that was easy to understand but full of symbolism.

Friedrich's most famous paintings include the ruins of the Eldena monastery near Greifswald. Still a – yes, exactly! – romantic place. Plants entwine themselves along the old brick pillars - green moss, red climbing plants, yellow flowers. When the sun goes down, its rays work their way up the walls from the bottom of the ruins to the top of the archway. A bit as if it is saying goodbye.

„The west window of the Eldena ruins was half walled up in Frederick's time,„ Frenssen knows. „But in his painting ‚Ruine Eldena im Riesengebirge‘ he depicted it as an open keyhole. And his drawings show a man sitting with one leg in the grave. You can still understand that today.“

Ludwigsburg Castle in Loissin. It is to be restored., © TMV/Tiemann
Ludwigsburg Castle in Loissin. It is to be restored.
Dr. Barbara Roggow, museum director of the Rungehaus in Wolgast., © TMV/Tiemann

Versatile and enigmatic

Philipp Otto Runge and Romanticism in Western Pomerania

The young Philipp Otto Runge was also a Romantic. But he was someone who always went his own way. That is why I am so enthusiastic about him“, enthuses Dr. Barbara Roggow, museum director of the Runge House in Wolgast, about Philipp Otto Runge, the contemporary of Caspar David Friedrich. „He created paintings and prints full of allegories, whose true beauty only reveals itself with the right interpretation.“

The painting „The Lesson of the Nightingale” is the best example of this, says Roggow. Most viewers only see a picture frame decorated with birds, flowers and angels, in the middle of which sits a winged woman with two cherubs in a tree. You would have to have studied Runge's life to realize that it contains a declaration of love to Runge's later wife Pauline von Dresden, with whom he was unhappily in love for a long time. And why is the picture round, not square? Because his love is boundless, without beginning, without end.“

Runge did not only show his skills in pictures. He also painted canvas, designed theater curtains and a card game, and was active in the fields of literature, singing and dance. „True to the motto ‚I express my feelings because I am a human being‘.“

A school of thought, says Roggow, that was later taken up again by Wassily Kandinsky and Paul Klee.

Hardly anything inspired the Romantic painters as much as nature, as here in Western Pomerania., © TMV/Tiemann

Romantic artists in Western Pomerania

The pull of light and color

Both Runge and Friedrich had to leave their homeland in order to further their education and sell their art. But they carried the light, the colors of the region in their hearts. Even today, Western Pomerania still attracts many artists. „Romanticism is an art movement in history that keeps coming back in waves,“ says Roggow. „Whenever people felt a lack of emotion, of humanity, they returned to romanticism. Romance helps us to come to ourselves, to regenerate.“ Western Pomerania offers the ideal backdrop for this: „There is an incredible light here and you have the flat landscape with the high sky, the ‚Friedrich sky ‘ – wide, violet or red“, enthuses Frärmt Frenssen. „We also have places here that have hardly changed over the centuries. The view of Stralsund's tarns when you come from Hiddensee, or the feeling of stepping out of the beech forests onto the chalk cliffs“. Scenes that Friedrich captured in his famous paintings can still be experienced today. Sailing across the Bodden, walking along the River Ryck in Greifswald or enjoying one of these magical sunsets.

The historic two-master "Weisse Düne" glides over the waters of Western Pomerania., © TMV/Friedrich
The historic two-master "Weisse Düne" glides over the waters of Western Pomerania.
  • © TMV/pocha.de

    Romanticism bike tour in Vorpommern

    • Length: 293 km
    • Etappen: 7

    The Route of North German Romanticism links places of Romantic art and literature from Wolgast via the Hanseatic towns of Greifswald and Stralsund to Cape Arkona on Rügen with an intense experience of nature along the West Pomeranian coast.

    Read more: "Romanticism bike tour in Vorpommern"
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    Romantic excursion destinations

    in and around Greifswald

    20 results

    • © TMV/Tiemann

      Ludwigsburg Palace

      • Schlosshof, 17509 Ludwigsburg

      The Renaissance palace Ludwigsburg was built between 1577 and 1592 as a widow's seat for Hedwig Sophie von Pommern-Wolgast. After her death in 1631 the palace changed hands several times until it was sold to the Greifswald merchant Weissenborn in 1810.

      Read more: "Ludwigsburg Palace"
    • © tvv-michaelis

      Natural Beach Vierow

      • 17509 Vierow

      Not far from the small industrial port of Vierow and about 2 km from the village of Vierow, you can reach the natural beach Vierow on a hiking and cycling path. Lined by small and large stones and protected by a cliff about 1 to 3 meters high, the southern coast of Rügen with Zudar and peninsula Mönchgut in sight. Already Caspar-David Friedrich looked from here to the island of Rügen and drew “Fischerboote am Strand”.

      Read more: "Natural Beach Vierow"
    • The Devil's Stone is a popular photo motif, © Angelika Michaelis

      The "Teufelsstein" in Lubmin

      • 17509 Lubmin

      The “Teufelsstein”, which translates to “Devil’s Stone”, is a boulder in the Greifswalder Bodden near Lubmin. As late as 1909 it was above the cliff. It serves as a benchmark for surveying the coastal decline. It is a popular photo opportunity on a hike along the cliff coast to Vierow and on the high shore back to the seaside resort of Lubmin.

      Read more: "The "Teufelsstein" in Lubmin"
    • © TVV-Bock

      Seaside Resort of Lubmin

      • Waldstraße, 17509 Lubmin

      The peaceful seaside resort of Lubmin with its 350 m long pier, a wide child-friendly sandy beach and picturesque and quaint pine forests is perfect for a family holiday. Lubmin is one of the stations of the "Route of North German Romanticism".

      Read more: "Seaside Resort of Lubmin"
    • © TMV/ Krauss

      Museum Rungehaus

      • Kronwiekstraße, 17438 Wolgast

      The museum Rungehaus is the birth house of the painter and romantic artist Philipp Otto Runge (1777-1810). Alongside Caspar David Friedrich, he is regarded as one of the most important painters and graphic artists of the German Romantic period.

      Read more: "Museum Rungehaus"
    • © Baltzer

      City Harbour Wolgast

      • Freely accessible at any time
      • Hafenstraße, 17438 Wolgast

      The city harbour of Wolgast spreads an impressive maritime flair and is part of the "Route of the North German Romanticism." . Passenger ships set off on excursions into the backwater and to the Bay of Greifswald. The sailing ship "Weisse Düne" invites guests for a trip. A sensational view to the Petrikirche and the city centre is offered to the viewer. The imposing bascule bridge to the island of Usedom and the Peene shipyard characterise the town on the Peene river.

      Read more: "City Harbour Wolgast"
    • © TMV/pocha.de

      Romanticism bike tour in Vorpommern

      • Length: 293 km
      • Etappen: 7

      The Route of North German Romanticism links places of Romantic art and literature from Wolgast via the Hanseatic towns of Greifswald and Stralsund to Cape Arkona on Rügen with an intense experience of nature along the West Pomeranian coast.

      Read more: "Romanticism bike tour in Vorpommern"
    • Manor house entrance

      Wrangelsburg

      • Schlossplatz, 17495 Wrangelsburg

      Today’s manor house in Wrangelsburg was built around 1880. It is idyllically located and has a landscape park directly on the castle lake. Many romantic hiking trails lead into the forest from here.

      Read more: "Wrangelsburg"
    • Hotel Neetzow Castle

      • Am Schlosspark, 17391 Neetzow

      Finally out. Into the natural heart of Western Pomerania.

      Read more: "Hotel Neetzow Castle"
    • © Tourismuszentrale Rügen

      Stubbenkammer chalk cliffs

      • 18546 Sassnitz

      Caspar David Friedrich captured it in his paintings, the rugged chalk coast with its old beeches: the Stubbenkammer. The 1st symphony of Johannes Brahms (1833 - 1897) even got stuck at the Wissower Klinken. The composer completed the final movement of this work in Sassnitz. Today, the Stubbenkammer with its chalk cliffs and the UNESCO World Heritage Bchenwälder is a national park, the smallest national park in Germany.

      Read more: "Stubbenkammer chalk cliffs"

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