Romance in Western Pomerania

Where painters simply have to paint

Author: Anna Monterroso Carneiro
Published: October 13, 2025

Immortalized by Caspar David Friedrich in numerous variations. Their charm remains unbroken to this day., © TMV/Friedrich

Soft pink, fiery orange, dark gray - the sunsets in Western Pomerania are magical. And on the coast, reed grass and gently gliding sailing boats create a particularly atmospheric setting.

 

 

When the sun goes down on the coast of Western Pomerania, it's easy to escape the speeding reality, take a deep breath and enjoy. Incidentally, this is not just a longing of the 21st century. It was already driving artists 200 years ago. They were looking for a way away from dreary theory, wanted to get back to nature, to themselves, to genuine humanity.

Whoever travels through the landscapes of Western Pomerania today, for example on the „Route of North German Romanticism“, it seems almost inevitable that this backdrop produced two of the greatest representatives of early Romanticism – and with Romanticism a whole new art form.

„Caspar David Friedrich and Philipp Otto Runge were two young men from Swedish Pomerania who revolutionized art,

says Dr Birte Frenssen, art historian and curator at the Pomeranian State Museum in Greifswald. And although the two painters had similar backgrounds, namely coming from families of craftsmen, studied at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen and each lived in Dresden for some time, and although they are both considered founders of Romanticism, they each found their own unique path.

Dr. Birte Frenssen is an art historian and curator at the Pomeranian State Museum in Greifswald., © TMV/Tiemann

Images of nature full of symbolism

The Romantic artist Caspar David Friedrich in Western Pomerania

Frenssen is probably the most knowledgeable person you can meet in Western Pomerania on the subject of Romanticism and Caspar David Friedrich. The Pomeranian State Museum is located on the grounds of a former Franciscan monastery. The painting gallery with many works by Friedrich is one of the museum's highlights. A new Romanticism gallery is currently being planned.

„What exactly is Romanticism, Dr. Frenssen?“

„Many people consider the sunset to be romantic. That used to be the case, and it is today. But for the Romantics, the artists of the Romantic period, the sunset had a meaning that went beyond the natural event. For them, human life was reflected in the times of day. ‚In the morning think‘ of your destiny, in the evening think‘ of your death‘ – that expresses the romantic understanding very well“. According to Frenssen, Romanticism is actually an art movement that is easy to understand. There is no abstraction whatsoever. If you look at a picture, you can experience exactly that outside in nature for yourself. Caspar David Friedrich invented expansive nature paintings in which he depicted the future and the mystery of the grave in a way that was easy to understand but full of symbolism.

Friedrich's most famous paintings include the ruins of the Eldena monastery near Greifswald. Still a – yes, exactly! – romantic place. Plants entwine themselves along the old brick pillars - green moss, red climbing plants, yellow flowers. When the sun goes down, its rays work their way up the walls from the bottom of the ruins to the top of the archway. A bit as if it is saying goodbye.

„The west window of the Eldena ruins was half walled up in Frederick's time,„ Frenssen knows. „But in his painting ‚Ruine Eldena im Riesengebirge‘ he depicted it as an open keyhole. And his drawings show a man sitting with one leg in the grave. You can still understand that today.“

Ludwigsburg Castle in Loissin. It is to be restored., © TMV/Tiemann
Ludwigsburg Castle in Loissin. It is to be restored.
Dr. Barbara Roggow, museum director of the Rungehaus in Wolgast., © TMV/Tiemann

Versatile and enigmatic

Philipp Otto Runge and Romanticism in Western Pomerania

The young Philipp Otto Runge was also a Romantic. But he was someone who always went his own way. That is why I am so enthusiastic about him“, enthuses Dr. Barbara Roggow, museum director of the Runge House in Wolgast, about Philipp Otto Runge, the contemporary of Caspar David Friedrich. „He created paintings and prints full of allegories, whose true beauty only reveals itself with the right interpretation.“

The painting „The Lesson of the Nightingale” is the best example of this, says Roggow. Most viewers only see a picture frame decorated with birds, flowers and angels, in the middle of which sits a winged woman with two cherubs in a tree. You would have to have studied Runge's life to realize that it contains a declaration of love to Runge's later wife Pauline von Dresden, with whom he was unhappily in love for a long time. And why is the picture round, not square? Because his love is boundless, without beginning, without end.“

Runge did not only show his skills in pictures. He also painted canvas, designed theater curtains and a card game, and was active in the fields of literature, singing and dance. „True to the motto ‚I express my feelings because I am a human being‘.“

A school of thought, says Roggow, that was later taken up again by Wassily Kandinsky and Paul Klee.

Hardly anything inspired the Romantic painters as much as nature, as here in Western Pomerania., © TMV/Tiemann

Romantic artists in Western Pomerania

The pull of light and color

Both Runge and Friedrich had to leave their homeland in order to further their education and sell their art. But they carried the light, the colors of the region in their hearts. Even today, Western Pomerania still attracts many artists. „Romanticism is an art movement in history that keeps coming back in waves,“ says Roggow. „Whenever people felt a lack of emotion, of humanity, they returned to romanticism. Romance helps us to come to ourselves, to regenerate.“ Western Pomerania offers the ideal backdrop for this: „There is an incredible light here and you have the flat landscape with the high sky, the ‚Friedrich sky ‘ – wide, violet or red“, enthuses Frärmt Frenssen. „We also have places here that have hardly changed over the centuries. The view of Stralsund's tarns when you come from Hiddensee, or the feeling of stepping out of the beech forests onto the chalk cliffs“. Scenes that Friedrich captured in his famous paintings can still be experienced today. Sailing across the Bodden, walking along the River Ryck in Greifswald or enjoying one of these magical sunsets.

The historic two-master "Weisse Düne" glides over the waters of Western Pomerania., © TMV/Friedrich
The historic two-master "Weisse Düne" glides over the waters of Western Pomerania.
  • © TMV/pocha.de

    Romanticism bike tour in Vorpommern

    • Length: 293 km
    • Etappen: 7

    The Route of North German Romanticism links places of Romantic art and literature from Wolgast via the Hanseatic towns of Greifswald and Stralsund to Cape Arkona on Rügen with an intense experience of nature along the West Pomeranian coast.

    Read more: "Romanticism bike tour in Vorpommern"
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    Romantic excursion destinations

    in and around Greifswald

    20 results

    • © Caspar-David-Friedrich-Gesellschaft e. V., ©2021 Gudrun Koch

      Caspar David Friedrich Center

      • Open today
      • Lange Straße, 17489 Greifswald

      The Caspar-David-Friedrich-Zentrum, opened in 2004 in the historic Seifensiederei and expanded in 2011 to include the entire former residential and commercial building of the Friedrich family, commemorates the great painter and greatest son of the city of Greifswald. It is also a museum, documentation and research center. Caspar David Friedrich was born here on September 5, 1774.

      Read more: "Caspar David Friedrich Center"
    • Earth history: From dinosaurs to the last ice age, © Gudrun Koch

      Pomeranian State Museum

      • Open today
      • Rakower Str., 17489 Greifswald

      14,000 years of eventful history on the southern Baltic coast on both sides of the Oder are presented between the former Franciscan church and the city wall - in an award-winning ensemble of buildings that impressively combines Gothic, classicist and contemporary architecture. The valuable collection of paintings presents works by renowned painters such as Caspar David Friedrich, Frans Hals, Philipp Otto Runge, Max Liebermann, Max Pechstein and Vincent van Gogh.

      Read more: "Pomeranian State Museum"
    • © Sven Fischer

      Greifswald Museum Harbour

      • Open today
      • Hafenstraße, 17489 Greifswald

      Gaff ketch and schooner, seaquat and ramship, cruiser and kragejolle - about 45 old ships characterise the image of the museum harbour in Greifswald, which was founded in 1991 following the example of the museum harbours in Flensburg and Hamburg. With this, the Hanseatic townspeople reacted to the increased interest in historic ships and traditional seamanship.

      Read more: "Greifswald Museum Harbour"
    • Marketplace of the University and Hanseatic City of Greifswald

      • Freely accessible at any time
      • Markt, 17489 Greifswald

      The development of the town of Greifswald began with the founding of Hilda Monastery. The town was first mentioned in a document in 1248 and received its town charter in 1250. The market square is the heart of the historic old town. Caspar David Friedrich painted the market square with a view of the Ratsapotheke and part of the town hall as a watercolor - on display in the Pomeranian State Museum.

      Read more: "Marketplace of the University and Hanseatic City of Greifswald"
    • Greifswald Town Hall

      • Markt, 17489 Greifswald

      The Town Hall of Greifswald dates back to the 14th century and is located in the center of the Hanseatic City of Greifswald. The tourist information office of the University and Hanseatic City of Greifswald is located in the town hall arcades.

      Read more: "Greifswald Town Hall"
    • © Gudrun Koch

      St. Nikolai Cathedral Greifswald

      • Domstraße, 17489 Greifswald

      Greifswald Cathedral is one of the most beautiful sacred buildings in northern Germany. With its 100 m high tower, it towers over the Hanseatic City of Greifswald. From its tower gallery, you have an impressive view as far as the Island of Rügen.

      Read more: "St. Nikolai Cathedral Greifswald"
    • © Gudrun Koch

      Eldena monastery ruins

      • Freely accessible at any time
      • Wolgaster Landstraße, 17493 Greifswald

      The monastery ruins and park are a popular excursion destination for Greifswald residents and their guests. The monastery ruins are also the starting and finishing point of the themed cycle path "Route of North German Romanticism", which traces the stations and lives of the North German Romantics of Western Pomerania.

      Read more: "Eldena monastery ruins"
    • © Philipp Schulz

      Fishing Port Wieck

      • Am Hafen, 17493 Greifswald

      Wieck is one of the oldest fishing villages in Northern Germany and is closely connected with the monastery in Eldena. The fishing port was already at that time an important outer harbour, on the river Ryck, for the city of Greifswald.

      Read more: "Fishing Port Wieck"
    • Wiecker wooden bascule bridge

      • Freely accessible at any time
      • An der Mühle, 17493 Greifswald

      The Wieck wooden bascule bridge connects the two districts of Wieck and Eldena in the Hanseatic City of Greifswald. It was built in 1887 following the Dutch model. The bascule bridge crosses the River Ryck. The river flows into the Dänische Wiek, part of the Greifswalder Bodden. The bridge is only accessible to cyclists and pedestrians and is only opened when necessary. During the approx. 10-minute bridge crossing, visitors can observe how the old monument works.

      Read more: "Wiecker wooden bascule bridge"
    • © TMV.Thomas Grundner

      Ludwigsburg Natural Beach

      • Strandweg, 17509 Ludwigsburg

      Ludwigsburg beach is a popular destination for holidaymakers and locals. On hot summer days you can relax in a shady spot under the pine trees of the coastal forest or enjoy the rustic food and drink in a local inn. The homemade cakes are highly recommended.Kiters and surfers will love the beach and the shallow water of the Danish Wiek and the Bay of Greifswald.

      Read more: "Ludwigsburg Natural Beach"

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